Episode 6: Just how far do I go

Yemen is a high, dry coffee-producing country known for its small, emerald-colored Arabica beans, which offer exceptional flavor and rare notes. I have often wished I could source some for our roastery, but it is difficult to find on the market. It is rare, expensive, and produced in limited quantities. What little is exported is usually snapped up by the European market.

I had heard that in these high, arid regions, coffee is grown using a very different method than what I’ve seen in lush, mountainous environments. Large holes, 3–4 feet in diameter, are dug, and the plants are placed deep inside. When watered, these “pits” retain moisture and shield the plants from the scorching sun. This traditional method has been used for over 500 years.

In 2018, I attended the annual Specialty Coffee Association Convention in Seattle. At the back of the vast convention hall, tucked away by himself, sat a devout-looking Muslim man at a small table. Curious, I decided to see what he had to offer.

Dressed in a cloth robe with a matching hat and a full beard, he was somewhat intimidating at first. For a brief moment, my mind whispered that this was what a radical terrorist might look like. However, as we started talking—initially about coffee—he described its agronomy, the nuances of its flavor, and Yemen’s rich history of coffee cultivation.

Our conversation soon turned to our families, faith, and dreams. With a serious expression, he looked at me and said, "You are a man of the book, and you are my friend. Can you come to my village? I want you to meet my brothers and father—we all grow this coffee." He then revealed that they were in the middle of a civil war. I asked how that